Cashmere
What is cashmere?
Cashmere is a rare natural fibre, derived from the down of the Capra Hircus goat, reared in the most extreme regions of the globe — notably in Mongolia and on the high Himalayan plateaux.
To withstand winters that can reach –40°C, the animal develops an exceptionally fine undercoat, at once lightweight, soft and remarkably insulating.
Naturally thermoregulating, cashmere retains warmth without overheating, and can be worn directly against the skin. Its incomparable comfort lies in the fineness of its fibre — up to five times finer than a human hair.
Once worn, it becomes difficult to return to any other material.
Origin & history
Cashmere is born in some of the world's most rugged territories.
On the high plateaux of Mongolia, Tibet and the Himalayas, at altitudes above 3,000 metres, Capra Hircus goats live in extreme conditions, where temperatures can plunge to –40°C. To survive, they develop an exceptionally fine down, a natural barrier against the cold.
Today, the vast majority of the world's cashmere comes from Mongolia, which concentrates the bulk of the herds. These arid, sparsely populated regions perpetuate a pastoral way of life, often nomadic, where goat rearing remains largely artisanal.
Each spring, during the moult, this precious down is harvested — combed or collected — with care. A rare resource: a single goat produces on average only around 100 grams of usable fibre. It therefore takes between 2 and 6 goats to make a single jumper.
Whilst the fibre originates from these high summits, the name "cashmere" finds its origins in the Kashmir region of India, where this wool was once spun and woven before travelling along the Silk Road.
A material born of extreme conditions, shaped by time and by hand.
Ply count & gauge
The number of plies and the gauge are two essential concepts for understanding the result of a cashmere sweater — its thickness, its structure and the sensation of wearing it.
Indeed, the more plies there are, the thicker and warmer the garment will be.
The ply count refers to the number of cashmere strands twisted together to create a knitting yarn.
A 2-ply sweater is fine, lightweight, almost a second skin.
A 4-ply offers a more structured fit, ideal for everyday wear.
From 6 plies onwards, the cashmere becomes denser and more enveloping — designed for winter.
The gauge: the precision of the knit
The gauge refers to the fineness of the knit, that is to say the number of stitches worked over a given surface. In practical terms, it is linked to the size of the needles used: the finer the needles, the tighter the knit.
A gauge 12 corresponds to a fine, even knit, often used for 2-ply sweaters. Conversely, a lower gauge, such as a gauge 7, produces a more open, more supple knit with a slightly more relaxed appearance.
The balance between gauge and ply count is essential. A thick yarn knitted too tightly will lose its suppleness; a fine yarn knitted too loosely will lack structure.
It is in this adjustment that the excellence of a beautiful sweater is determined.
Our yarn choice
We primarily use a 2/26 yarn, a premium standard that achieves an ideal balance between fineness, durability and softness.
This yarn count ensures a high degree of knitting regularity and makes it possible to work both fine stitches and thicker constructions, with no compromise on the quality of the result.
How to recognise quality cashmere?
To the naked eye, it is often difficult to assess the true quality of a cashmere jumper. Yet specialists rely primarily on three essential characteristics.
Fibre fineness
The finer the fibre, the softer and more silky the feel. This is one of the primary quality criteria for cashmere.
Fibre length
Long fibres interlock more effectively during spinning. They yield a more resilient knit and naturally limit pilling over time.
Fibre whiteness
The lightest fibres provide a better base for dyeing. They allow for deeper, more luminous colours that remain true over time.
These criteria are not always visible at first glance. That is why choosing a specialist who can explain the origin of their fibres, their manufacturing methods and the characteristics of their products is often the best way to invest in a quality cashmere piece designed to last for many years.
How to choose your cashmere wisely?
A cashmere jumper is a piece one keeps for many years. To make the right choice, a few essential criteria deserve your full attention, whether you are shopping in-store or online.
The specialist behind it
Not all retailers possess the same expertise. A cashmere specialist knows the origin of their fibres, the manufacturing methods and the characteristics of each quality of wool. They will be able to advise you and answer your questions with precision.
The composition
Always take the time to check the label. A 100% cashmere jumper will not offer the same properties as a style made from a fibre blend. Depending on your expectations, a blend may have its merits, but it is important to know exactly what you are purchasing.
The weight and density of the knit
Two jumpers may appear identical at first glance, while presenting very different qualities. A knit that is too light or sheer may reveal a lesser quantity of material. Conversely, a well-dense knit generally offers better structure, greater warmth and superior durability.
Origin and traceability
The provenance of cashmere is an essential element. Knowing the origin of the fibres and the expertise used in their transformation is a true guarantee of quality and transparency.
What is Premium cashmere at Mahogany?
The premium collection is crafted from an exceptional cashmere meeting the standards of 2 or 3 globally renowned brands.
A fibre of 13 to 14 microns, sourced from the first combing of young goats, yielding the finest fibre in the world. By comparison, a high-end cashmere, such as the one primarily used on our site, measures 15.5 microns. A more standard cashmere sits at 16.5 / 17 microns. The finer the cashmere, the softer the jumper.
These young goats, which are exclusively combed, produce only 30 grams per animal, compared to 100 to 200 grams for an adult cashmere goat. Only a few dozen tonnes of this quality are available each year across the entire planet.
This fibre also has an average length of 36 mm, a characteristic found in our other cashmeres as well. This maximum length reduces the appearance of pilling. The colour quality of the premium fibre is described as "extra white".
We work only with the whitest fibres, which guarantee the purest colour rendition without the need for bleaching agents that could compromise the fibre's qualities. The craftsmanship meets our usual standards, which are already at the highest level: hand-knitted, hand-finished collar, individual quality control.
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